We are fully aware that the land of bespoke tailoring has become more and more complex. You now have to choose whether you would like a half or a full canvassed suit, when you have no idea what it either means. That’s why we have created a clear guide for you to clear up the differences, so that you can be confident with the choices you’re making when it comes to your tailored suit.
WHAT IS A SUIT CANVAS?
What this means in simple terms is the interfacing of your bespoke jacket, which is the inner structure that gives your suit jacket its shape. The canvas, (also known as the interfacing) is typically made from horsehair and can be blended with cotton or synthetic material. It’s the layer placed in between the cloth you see on the outside of your tailored jacket and the lining you see on the inside. Different thicknesses of canvases are chosen for different weights of cloths so that the weight is well balanced for the fabric you’ve chosen.
CAN A BESPOKE SUIT BE MADE WITHOUT A CANVAS?
Yes, it can, but the overall look becomes much more casual and becomes a much lighter constructed tailored jacket, which is more (in our view) practical for travel wear or a relaxed look and is not as practical for a business, wedding or professional bespoke suit.
WHAT IS A HALF CANVAS?
A half canvas suit construction starts at the padded shoulder to halfway down the jacket body. Some bespoke jackets are fused, and this is where you may find glue being used to attach the interfacing. This is a cheaper option used in tailored suits that we wouldn’t suggest, and this is why on some suits that have been dry cleaned, you may find bubbling occurring around the chest area.
Our half canvas suits are made with hundreds of tiny stitches that gently attach the canvassing to the body of your bespoke jacket to give it more of an elegant drape and finish.
WHY WOULD YOU CHOOSE A HALF CANVASSED BESPOKE SUIT?
A half canvas chest piece on a bespoke suit creates a strong look and for those with slimmer shoulders or who are wanting to create an illusion of upper body strength; we suggest choosing this option. The shoulders are more structured and ‘firm’. This lends to a striking, tailored suit that shows you mean business.
A half canvas suit is a less expensive option while still providing structure to the upper body. It will feel noticeably more robust and it will feel like you’re really wearing your suit. However, if you like a more relaxed look then you’ll want to consider our next option.
WHAT IS A FULL CANVAS?
A full canvas suit is as close to a bespoke suit you can get by way of construction. It is stitched to the inside of the lapels, to allow the canvas to free flow throughout the jacket, allowing its overall finish to look much softer and smoother.
WHY WOULD YOU CHOOSE A FULL CANVAS SUIT?
A full canvas suit leans more towards a bespoke suit by way of the finished look and feel. It’s weightless and moulds to the body better over time due to its construction process.
When choosing a lighter weight fabric or a luxury fabric such as a super 120s+ wool, we tend to advise a full canvas as it flows with the fabric which is far superior than with a half canvas. This is because it runs from the top of the suit jacket to the bottom, giving it a cleaner, crisper appearance.
The overall finish of your bespoke suit is much softer so if you like a clean, elegant look then this is for you.
With a half canvas suit in a light-mid weight cloth, you can see a break between the chest canvas and the rest of the jacket, whereas with a full canvas this does not happen.
OUR ROUND UP OF THE DIFFERENCES
In conclusion, we tend to advise choosing a full canvas when selecting a lightweight fabric. We find this lends itself better to the shape of your suit overall. Needless to say, that if you’re choosing a heavier weight cloth then it’s’ best to choose a half canvas for your suit.
